Sake in Autumn
September 22nd officially marked the equinox and the beginning of all things autumn.
In Japan, autumn comes with its own scenery, as the leaves on the Japanese ‘momiji’ red maple trees turn from green to fiery reds and yellows. When it comes to the world of sake, the season offers different practices and cultural experiences to enjoy.
So what is important about sake in the autumn?
Harvest & Brewing
World Sake Day, on October 1st, was officially designated in 1978 by the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS) as a day to honour sake. This date coincides with the end of the traditional rice harvesting period, following which begins the brewing preparation. This includes rice polishing, washing, soaking and steaming the rice, as well as koji making and the starter mash preparation (a lot of physical work for the brewers during this time). Now, thankfully we benefit from modern technology and refrigeration/temperature-controlling equipment. In the past, the cooler temperatures of autumn were ideal for the initial stages of sake brewing as they prevented contamination via unwanted bacterial growth, which was a nightmare for the brewers. The temperature continues to stay low throughout the winter brewing cycle.
Seasonal Sake
The release of hiyaoroshi to the public typically marks the seasonal transition in Japan. ‘Hiyaoroshi’ is a specific type of seasonal limited sake that has been brewed during winter, pasteurised only once, and then stored throughout spring and summer, ready to be drunk in the autumn season. Due to the single pasteurisation, the flavours of this sake evolve over time, from juicy and refreshing, to producing mellow earthy and nutty flavours further into the season, which pair perfectly with seasonal harvest such as pumpkin, shiitake mushroom, and sweet roasted chestnuts. If you have the chance to visit Japan during the autumn, be sure to hunt down some hiyaoroshi sake to try for yourself!
Autumnal Festivals
During autumn, there are many different festivals to enjoy, including Tsukimi - dating back to the Heian period, where people celebrate the harvest moon by gathering to hold moon-viewing parties. Here, alongside seasonal foods and rice cakes, sake is often enjoyed and traditionally was even offered to the moon in thanks and prayers for a continual good harvest.
Another notable autumn sake festival is Saijo Sake Matsuri, often described as ‘the best sake festival in Japan’, alongside more notorious claims of being the ‘wild, delicious drunken’ sake festival (both of which sound promising). This event is the biggest sake festival in Hiroshima, held annually in October, and features over 800 sake varieties from across Japan. With brewery tours, cultural performances, hot pot vendors and sake as far as the eye can see, this is the equivalent of Disneyland for any nihonshu lover.
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Overall, autumn is a pretty important and symbolic time for the drink. It encapsulates the start of a fresh brew, alongside opening the newly matured sake from the previous year. This season really invites us to enjoy the true craftsmanship of brewing, alongside a vast community of sake-enjoyers.
